5 Exciting Weeks Discovering the Amazing Turkey and Experiencing Its Life

If you have been following us on social media already (otherwise click here and there!), you may know that we have decided to take some time off from our jobs from the end of August 2023 up to the end of December 2023 to travel Europe. Part of our program was a long stay discovering the amazing Turkey – 5 weeks -, a country so close and so far at the same time from our native countries.

Of course, we had an amazing time backpacking there with our now 3-year-old daughter. However, those 5 weeks were somehow just enough to realise we had just scratched the surface. So many things left to discover, learn and enjoy!

As usual, let’s start first with a bit of context

A quick overview of Turkey

Turkey – also known officially as the Republic of Türkiye – is a large country spreading across both the European and Asian continents, creating a real bridge between those two continents.
The political capital of the country is Ankara (somehow central location) but the economic capital – and largest city – is Istanbul (formerly Constantinople). Despite the Republic of Türkiye is still relatively young as it was founded in 1923 after the collapse of the Ottoman Empire, it has been built upon centuries and centuries of a very rich history. The Greeks, the Romans, the Byzantines, and the Ottomans have successively developed and left their marks in every aspect of Turkish culture.

There is no official state religion in The Republic of Türkiye and the constitution provides for freedom of religion and conscience. A very large part of the 85 million people living in Turkey is Muslim, with small Christian and Jewish communities.

The time in Turkey is GMT +3 (it will be 3 pm when it is noon in the UK).

Turkey is bordered by the Black Sea to the north, Georgia and Armenia to the northeast, Azerbaijan and Iran to the east, Iraq and Syria to the southeast, the Mediterranean and Aegean Seas to the southwest and west, and Greece and Bulgaria to the northwest.

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Turkey economy

The local official currency is the Turkish lira (abbreviated TL, symbol ₺). The exchange rates, when visiting back in November 2023, were around 31tl for 1 EUR, 36tl for 1 GBP or 29tl for 1 USD

You can check the live exchange rates here

What Turkey is famous for?

Despite a very rich history and natural wonders, nowadays Turkey is becoming more and more famous for medical treatment (teeth) and aesthetic surgery procedures (such as hair transplants) due to being cheaper than in Europe, including the cost of flight tickets and hotels.

Cats, cats, cats
There are cats literally everywhere. Not only that we love cats, but street cats are well looked after by everyone and by vets. There are even automates where to return plastic bottles for recycling against cat dry food. As a result, despite Turkey is not the cleanest country, you don’t have any vermin. You won’t see rats crossing the streets like in the UK anywhere. Street dogs are also looked after but there are fewer than cats as they are less useful (sorry for dog lovers!)…

Earthquakes in Turkey
Turkey’s geographical area is located almost entirely on fault lines. It is, as a result, a very active region with thousands of earthquakes of various magnitudes happening each year.
In 2023 alone, nearly 70,000 tremors of various magnitudes have been registered. The strongest earthquake of the year has been recorded at magnitude 7.8 in southern Turkey, not far from the border with Syria. It was followed a few hours later by major aftershock of magnitude 7.5 in the same region. This was the most devastating earthquake to hit Turkey in more than 20 years. Unfortunately, those quakes claimed the lives of more than 50,000 people and injured more than 100,000 others…

When is the best time to visit Turkey?

… And what’s the weather like?

There is no “best time” as such for discovering Turkey, it will really depend on what you’re interested in. April, May, September and October are pleasantly warm – not scorching – with temperatures between 20°C and 30°C, perfect for visiting the country’s extensive historical sites.

The summer months (June through to September) are very hot, with temperatures reaching easily the mid-thirties on the south coast. If you’re looking to lounge by the sea, that will be your best choice. We would not advise to visit historical sites such as Ephesus. With little to no shadow, it can become quite unpleasant and even dangerous (risks of dehydration and sunstroke).

From late autumn all across winter (late October to March), the weather can get rather cold (and rainy) and many seaside hotels are closed.
However, despite the low temperatures, these winter months can be the best time to explore the sites, because they are significantly less crowded. In Cappadocia, the temperature can drop below 0°C, although the snowy landscape is absolutely beautiful.

If you would like to, read more about the weather in the different regions of the Republic of Türkiye.

More practical information

We have added a Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) section at the bottom of this post, containing more practical information, for example about visa requirements to enter the country or how to travel around in Turkey.

Our itinerary for 5 Exciting Weeks Discovering the Amazing Turkey

During those 5 weeks of discovering the amazing Turkey, we have explored mountains, coasts, forests, towns, cultural heritages and so much more. We had a blast!

Have a look at our itinerary below. Hopefully, it will be a source of inspiration to plan your very own trip!

Stage	Day	From - To	Where
1	0 to 4	16 to 20/11/2023	Antalya
2	4 to 9	20 to 25/11/2023	Cappadocia
3	9 to 11	25 to 27/11/2023	Mediterranean coast
4	11 to 13	27 to 29/11/2023	Pammukale
5	14 to 18	30/11 to 04/12/2023	Aegean coast - Fethiye
6	18 to 22	04 to 08/12/2023	Aegean coast - Marmaris
7	22 to 25	08 to 11/12/2023	Aegean cost - Bodrum
8	25 to 27	11 to 13/12/2023	Aegean coast - Kuşadası
9	27 to 30	13 to 16/12/2023	Aegean coast – Izmir
10	30 to 35	16 to 21/12/2023	Istanbul

Stage 1 – Antalya

Antalya was our starting point, flying from Warsaw Frederic Chopin airport (Poland) to Antalya airport. Located on the southern Mediterranean coast, we selected Antalya for the sunny and warm weather you can find there even in mid-November. We stayed 4 nights in Antalya.

• Day 0: Arrival in the evening
• Day 1: Exploring the old town and the harbour
• Day 2: Visiting the antic town of Penge (Roman, Byzantine)
• Day 3: Long walk along the seafront from Antalya to Dünde waterfalls on the coast
• Day 4: Picking up our car rental and setting off for Cappadocia

Stage 2 – Cappadocia

After Antalya, we were eager to discover one of the most (if not the most) famous regions of Turkey: Cappadocia, with its fairy chimneys, hot air balloons, troglodyte dwellings and amazing rocky landscapes.
On the way, due to the distance between Antalya and Cappadocia, we decided to split the trip over two days, stopping for lunch in Beyşehir on the shore of the Beyşehir Lake – Beyşehir Gölü – the third largest natural lake in Turkey. We had another of those Wow moments in front of the lake, humbled by the serene calmness of the lake and the wide-open landscape. After the stop, we continued our drive and reached Konya, the largest city in Turkey in terms of surface, for the night. We took off early morning to avoid traffic jams and headed towards Cappadocia, enjoying more wild open landscapes.

Avoiding Göreme and the main cities of the area, really too touristy, we booked an amazing hotel for 4 nights in Mustafapaşa, a small village sitting about 15 km south-east of Göreme.

• Day 4: Beyşehir Lake – Beyşehir Gölü, and night in Konya
• Day 5: Arrival in Mustafapaşa
• Day 6: Göreme open-air museum and exploring Göreme
• Day 7: Hilara Valley (day walk) – Canyon with ruins of troglodytes settlement and Christian churches
• Day 8: Kaymakli and Derinkuyu underground cities, and Pigeon Valley (hike) between Goreme and Uchisar
• Day 9: Sunrise at Red Valley and departure

Note: You don’t really need a car to visit the Republic of Türkiye, but we found it the most convenient for the Cappadocia region. More information about how to move around in Türkiye is in the FAQ.

Stage 3 – Discovering Turkey’s south coast (Mediterranean coast)

Leaving Cappadocia, we tried to catch up some sun again on the southern Mediterranean coast, reaching the coastline around Mersin and heading west towards Side. As this part of the coast is known for mass tourism and heavily built, we didn’t want to waste too much time in a single place.

• Day 9: arrived in the afternoon in Yemişkuyu (west of Erdemli/Mersin) – Enjoying the seafront
• Day 10: Side, seafront promenade
• Day 11: Side in the morning (Nelly’s birthday), and then leave the coast towards Pammukale

Those stops made us think in depth about mass tourism, the lack of education of locals, the lack of infrastructure and their impacts on the environment. Without being a real eye-opening moment (that’s something we were already fully aware of), that has definitely helped us to shape our life project and how we can live in a different way than fast-paced and short-sighted consumerism.

We started celebrations for Nelly’s birthday (3 years old already!) with a nice little cake with strawberries and some balloons. We managed to get her a few educative and useful presents, and at the same time small enough to fit in our backpacks! A very happy child 🙂

Stage 4 – Pammukale

We drove the 300 km from Side to Pammukale in one go (with a lunch break in the middle of course), reaching our destination around 4 pm.

We planned to stay 2 nights in Pammukale.

• Day 11: Arrival in Pammukale in the afternoon
• Day 12: Early wake up to see hot air balloons taking off, travertine terraces, thermal waters, antic city of Hierapolis
• Day 13: Departure for Antalya to return the car and start another part of our trip!

After Nelly’s mini-birthday party in Side, we still wanted to offer her more for her birthday. We found out some days before about hot air balloon flights above Pammukale. We got up early before sunrise and led her to the village park located just under the famous travertine terraces. From there, we were able to watch about 20-ish hot air balloons taking off with the first rays of the sun. A really magical experience for her (and for us too!) and we hope she will remember this moment for a very long time!

Stage 5 – Fethiye

Departing from Antalya, we took a bus (Flixbus, via their local partner Kamil Koć). It took about 3 hours to reach Fethiye with a break about midway.

• Day 14: Bus to Fethiye
• Day 15: A long walk enjoying the beautiful weather! The old town, harbour, shipyards and shipwrights, all around the Fethiye peninsula
• Day 16: The ghost town of Kayaköy and walking above the hills to reach Ölüdeniz and its famous beach
• Day 17: Seafront promenade and a few hours for Nelly to enjoy the Fethiye park – Şehit Fethi Bey Parkı – and its humongous playgrounds!
• Day 18: Departure

When we reached Fethiye, we started to use the Turkish dolmuş, a publicly-run network of minibuses. It is a very convenient and cheap way to travel around (more about the dolmuş in the FAQ).

Stage 6 – Marmaris

We arrived in Marmaris from Fethiye via dolmuş.

Marmaris is a Turkish resort town that offers a good blend of natural beauty, history, and culture.
Being off-season, it was not crowded and therefore we could relax and unwind on the Sun-kissed beaches or walk along the harbour. The old town and its bazaar offer a glimpse into Turkey’s rich history and vibrant culture, with traditional shops, cafes, and restaurants. We found Marmaris a good destination for families thanks to its hospitality.

• Day 18: Arrival in Marmaris and a short walk around
• Day 19: Relaxing time along the seafront, lots of time for Nelly to play in the sand!
• Day 20: Meeting one of Anna’s friends she met years ago, who is living next to Marmaris
• Day 21: Walking from Marmaris to Içmeler on the coastline
• Day 22: Leaving Marmaris for Bodrum

Stage 7 – Bodrum

Bodrum is a popular destination on the Aegean coast of Turkey, with whitewashed houses and a sparkling marina, and it’s also known for its lively nightlife. We have visited many places around the world and in Turkey, and have to say that Bodrum is not one of our favourites:

• Bodrum is crowdy and noisy even off-season. It is easy to imagine the nightmare during the summer months with traffic jams, long queues, and loud music everywhere you go.
• Bodrum is very expensive, compared to other places in Turkey. You will have to pay a premium for everything, from accommodation to food to activities. Somehow, you keep giving and giving but you don’t get enough in return. It’s unbalanced. You can find much better value elsewhere in the country.
• Bodrum is very commercialized and has lost much of its charm and authenticity. You will see more chain stores, fast food outlets, and souvenir shops than local crafts, cuisine, and culture.

Don’t get us wrong, Bodrum is not a bad place to visit. It has some beautiful beaches, a few historical sites, some playgrounds and attractions. But it is not the paradise that some people make it out to be. We found the place overrated and overpriced. If you are looking for a more relaxing, affordable, and authentic experience, you might want to consider other options for discovering Turkey.

• Day 22: Arrived in the afternoon, walk along the beach
• Day 23: Seashore, beaches, playground, marina, windmills, harbour, old town
• Day 24: Bodrum amphitheatre, Mausoleum of Halicarnassus, Myndos Gate, seafront
• Day 25: Old Town, and departure

Stage 8 – Kuşadası

Compared to Bodrum, Kuşadası is a really nice city with a ‘normal’ vibe, a good balance between tourism and local life. The town has a very long seafront promenade, a fully operational and traditional fishing harbour, a great castle on a peninsula, a caravanserai, a bazaar and old quarters to explore. If you add on top of that its proximity to the ancient city of Ephesus, Kuşadası is a great destination for anyone who wants to experience the best of Türkiye’s history, culture, and nature.

• Day 25: Arrival early afternoon, walk along the sea shore and explore the town
• Day 26: Day trip to the ancient city of Ephesus, one of the best-preserved Roman ruins in the world (not to be missed!)
• Day 27: Enjoying a few more hours walking in the town before heading towards Izmir

To be honest, we wish we would have stayed less in Bodrum (maybe even skipped it completely) and spent more time in Kuşadası!

Stage 9 – Izmir

Izmir is a big, big town by European standards with a population of 4.3 million. It is the third most populous city in Turkey after Istanbul (15.8 million) and Ankara (5.7 million).
It is a working town, so you can witness and experience the local life more than being in a “touristy” environment.

Because the town doesn’t rely solely on tourism, accommodation remains a bit high priced and full all year long (with a noticeable small drop on Jan/ Feb).

• Day 27: Arrival and stroll at night
• Day 28: Walk along the seafront up to the Izmir historical clocktower
• Day 29: Walk up to the Asansör, an antic elevator, and visit the Ataturk museum
• Day 30: Early departure for Izmir

Stage 10 – Istanbul

Where to start… Istanbul is a great great city. An amazing one, so special and very exciting to explore. A city like no other.
Istanbul is sitting on both sides of the Bosphorus, one half (the former Constantinople) on the European continent and the other half on the Asian continent.
We arrived and departed from the Sabiha Gökçen International Airport on the Asian side, but stayed on the European side only.

We stayed in the old town with our bedroom offering a nice view of the Marmara Sea (South exposure).
Istanbul is very very rich from its past and there are so many places to visit and things to see: bazaars, the Hagia Sofia, the Blue Mosque (free), the old town itself Taqsim Square, the Peninsula/ Modern Art Museum, and lots of mosque and old churches to see everywhere.

The old town is amazingly busy. There are lots of small and large shops everywhere. We were wondering how people are making a living with so much competition, but they move tons of merchandise each day. Really impressive. The old city is organised a bit like in the Middle Ages – by corporations -: a quarter will have most of the shoe shops, another all the kids’ clothing, another only lingerie, the same for pharmacies, etc. Often several next to each other.

The old city is “dans son jus” overall with a mix of buildings renovated to different standards and finishes and crumbling ones (literally).

If you want to move around, it is possible to walk all around the town on the seafront, enjoying the nice weather, the views of the city and the sea with its bustling boat traffic. If you’re not keen on walking, there are several tube lines, train stations -not tried-, and ferry boats to go between the different parts of the town and across the Bosphorus.

A special note about the army of fishermen that you must see, either on the main bridges between the historic peninsula and the Golden Horn or on the seafront promenade where the main river meets the Bosphorus. The waters are incredibly full of fish and fishermen catch a dozen of fish every five minutes! Nelly was mesmerised and had lots of fun holding fish and checking each fisherman’s bucket and assessing the catch of the day!

• Day 30: Early flight to Istanbul and first immersion in the town
• Day 31: Long walk along the seashore of the historic peninsula (South of the European side, along the Marmara sea) and visit of the Blue Mosque and the surrounding area
• Day 32: Visit of bazaars early morning (no tourists!), Galata, Taqsim Square
• Day 33: Fatih district & looking at traditional fishermen
• Day 34: Long walk along the seashore of the historic peninsula, Galata, Karakoy
• Day 35: Departure in the morning for the airport… Bye-bye Turkey!

We usually don’t feel well in major cities, but Istanbul is different. We liked the city and its vibe, the beautiful contrast of the East and West, the past and future and the old and new. We have been even thinking about how it would be to live there!

Final reflections on an amazing experience discovering Turkey

Through those 5 weeks, we had a wonderful time discovering the amazing Turkey and have been able to experience its life, trying to live like locals (even if that’s a big word!). From sunny Antalya to the breathtaking landscapes of Cappadocia, each destination left a lasting impression on us.
As we reflect on our experiences, we can’t help but feel like we still just scratched the surface of all that Turkey has to offer. The rich history, warm hospitality, and stunning natural wonders made this trip truly special.

We hope this itinerary gave you ideas for any trip you would plan to the Republic of Turkey!

We’d love to hear about your dream travel destinations. What places are on your bucket list? Share your thoughts and travel aspirations with us – let’s keep the adventure spirit alive!

Practical information/ FAQ