From Ancient Ruins to Stunning Seascapes: A First Time Experience in Antalya

Our 5-week long trip in the amazing Republic of Türkiye began in Antalya, a city that beautifully blends the old with the new, the traditional with the modern, and the natural with the man-made. As first time visitors to Turkey, we were eager to immerse ourselves in the rich history, vibrant culture, and stunning landscapes that this Mediterranean gem had to offer.

Antalya, situated on Turkey’s southern coast, is a city that has stood the test of time. From its ancient Roman walls to its bustling modern marinas, it offers a unique blend of history and contemporary life that is hard to find elsewhere.

Living in the UK, we obviously arrived via a flight from Warsaw, Poland. No, no worries, the flight connections with Europe are excellent. Very easy to fly to/ from. Our trip to Turkey was part of a longer trip that led us previously to France, Spain, Portugal, Italy and Poland.
Our flight landed late in the evening, around 11 pm. We were genuinely surprised to discover that the connections between the airport and the town centre were excellent. There is a modern tram line running from 6 am to midnight. More details are available on the Antalya airport website.

Day 1: Exploring the Old Town and the Harbour

The first day of our first time exploring Antalya was nothing short of magical. We went out with the sun rising, painting the sky with hues of orange and pink. After some time enjoying the morning light and the stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea from the various viewing platforms near our hotel, we set out to explore the city. Starting by the picturesque harbour, we spent most of the morning there. Looking at the long line of boats usually carrying tourists around ongoing winter maintenance, basically watching the world go by. One of the big advantages to travelling there in November: the weather is still good and warm, and there are nearly no tourists 🙂

Our exploration of the harbour led us to the old town above. Also known as Kaleiçi, it is a maze of narrow streets and historic buildings. As we strolled through the winding lanes, we were transported back in time. The beautifully restored Ottoman houses, now converted into boutique hotels, shops and cafes, added to the old-world charm of the area. It’s easy to imagine the old town was still derelict not long ago – there are still some ancient Ottoman palaces “dans leur jus”. The development of modern tourism – and foreign investors – has somehow saved the area. The scent of freshly brewed Turkish tea and food being prepared wafting through the air, inviting us to take a break and soak in the surroundings.

The old town is very touristy and we want to experience life as locals do when we visit a country. We took a break from the old town to find a locals’ restaurant for a late lunch – or early dinner. After eating, we went back to the old town, entering via the Hadrian Gate, a Roman gate standing as a testament to Antalya’s rich history.

As the sun began to set, painting the sky with hues of gold and purple – yes, the sky was that beautiful -, we couldn’t help but marvel at the beauty of Antalya. Our first day in this beautiful city was coming to an end, but our adventure was just beginning. As we headed back to our hotel, we looked forward to the next day: Perge, the ancient Roman city.

Day 2: A Journey into the Past (Perge)

The Ancient City of Perge is located approximately 17 kilometres from the centre of Antalya.
We found it very easy to get there by tram, from the İsmetpaşa tram station, which is near the Old Town in Antalya and a few minutes from our hotel. The stop for Perge is the Aksu tram stop. From there, it’s an easy and not too strenuous 30-minute walk to reach Perge.

This ancient city stands as a testament to the rich history of Anatolia.

A (Very) Brief History of Perge:

The Lycians, known for their distinctive funerary architecture and unique script, originally established the city around the 13th century BC. Perge was later absorbed into the sphere of Greek influence and renamed Pamphylia. This period saw Perge flourish as a centre of learning and the arts. Many public buildings and spaces were constructed in the classical Greek style.

Perge’s prosperity was significantly boosted by its role as a vital trading hub. It connected the ancient cities of Side, Ephesus, and Antalya (named Attalia at that time), creating a dynamic economic network. The Kestros River (known today as the Aksu River), which flowed near the city, was an essential trade route that facilitated the movement of goods and ideas. Merchants and travellers would traverse this river, bringing with them the wealth and knowledge that contributed to Perge’s affluence and diversity.

In 334 BC, the city witnessed a historic moment. Alexander the Great is believed to have passed through Perge during his legendary campaigns. This event marked the beginning of a new era for the city. It became integrated into the vast Macedonian Empire. Alexander’s visit underscored Perge’s significance in the ancient world and heralded a period of increased Hellenistic influence.

Perge fell under the influence of the Romans after a war campaign in the region in 188 BC.
The city was first under the rule of the Kingdom of Pergamon, allies of the Romans, founded by a general of and successor of Alexander the Great. When the last king died without heirs in 233 BC, Perge joined the Roman Republic.

Perge was an important Christian centre that remained inhabited until the 11th Century AD.

What to see in Perge:

Perge having been a prime city for centuries, there are lots of landmarks and monuments to visit:

• the Greco-Roman Amphitheatre: This impressive theatre once accommodated around 15,000 spectators and hosted various performances.
• The Stadium: An archaeological wonder, the stadium showcases the ancient sporting culture.
• Hellenistic Walls & South Gate: These fortifications protected the city.
• Circular Hellenistic Gates: Ornate gates that adorned the city entrance.
• South Basilica: A religious structure with intricate details.
• South Baths: Remnants of the ancient public baths.
• Agora: The central marketplace, now in ruins.
• Colonnaded Street: A grand avenue lined with columns.
• The Upper Nympheum (Fountain): A water source adorned with sculptures.
• Palaestra & Mosaics: The gymnasium and well-preserved mosaic floors.

Perge Today:

Today, although Perge lies in ruins, it still stands as a silent witness to its storied past.

The city’s historical significance and remarkable state of preservation have led to its inclusion on UNESCO’s Temporary List of World Heritage Sites. This recognition underscores the importance of Perge as a cultural treasure, not just for Turkey but for the entire world. The ancient city holds a great wealth of knowledge about ancient urban planning and architecture and has been only partially excavated so far.

As visitors to Perge, we are invited to step back in time and wander through the remnants of this once-thriving city. As you walk along the collonaded streets and structures, you can marvel at the intricate mosaics underfoot, remnants of the city’s artistic legacy.

St. Paul, Perge and the St. Paul trail:

We cannot say we are religious persons, though we do respect others’ faith. From a history of religion’s point of view, Perge has also great significance. The Apostle Paul (St. Paul), with his companion St. Barnabas, visited Perge during his first missionary journey around 46 CE.
While the exact details of his activities in Perge are not extensively documented, his presence left an impression.

Today, Perge serves as the starting point for the St. Paul Trail, a 500 kilometres (310 miles) long-distance hiking trail that retraces his journey through Anatolia. The trail ends in Antioch in Pisidia (modern-day Yalvaç). As seasoned hikers, the trail is appealing to us and somehow made its way on our list, along with the Lycian Way 🙂
Walking the St. Paul trail, you will follow ancient Roman roads, traverse rugged mountains, and explore picturesque valleys. Along the trail, highlights include Aspendos, Lake Eğirdir, Sagalassos, and the ruins of Antioch.

Day 3: Embracing the Mediterranean

On the third day, we took our time and embarked on a long coastal walk, from the old town of Antalya to the breathtaking Dünde waterfalls. The walk is about 9.5km one way. However, there are possibilities to catch a bus if you don’t feel like walking so much. You would miss out on beautiful views though.

We crossed the old town again, up to the Hıdırlık Tower (Hıdırlık Kulesi), a historical tower that offers panoramic views of the Mediterranean Sea and the old city marina.

From there, we walked along the cliffside pathways. We enjoyed stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea with the mountains forming the Olympos Beydagları National Park in the background. There are several large parks on the way, with tables and benches, making the walk even more enjoyable (especially for Nelly as she’s been able to spend time in the different playground areas)

The Lower Düden Waterfalls are inside the large Düden Park, and are a must-see attraction in Antalya, offering a refreshing escape from the city’s vibrant energy.
These cascades are a natural wonder, where the Düden River plunges dramatically into the Mediterranean. Several observation decks allow you to take in the full majesty of the sea and the waterfalls. The sight of water tumbling down from the cliffs is awe-inspiring, and the surrounding lush greenery adds to the magic. In addition on sunny days, the falling water creates a -refreshing- spray mist which makes a rainbow. This picture makes the waterfall one of the top sights in Antalya. Make sure to take the time to visit during your stay in Antalya! And don’t forget your camera – this is a moment you’ll want to capture forever. 🌊🌿📸

Reflections on Antalya: our Newcomers’ Perspective

As our time in Antalya drew to a close, we found ourselves reflecting on the myriad experiences (already!) that had graced our days in this Mediterranean haven.

Antalya’s seamless blend of antiquity and modernity where the modern town contrasts sharply with the relics of the past, yet somehow, complement each other perfectly.
We have also found out that it is easy to experience life as a local, not as a typical tourist. Only if you dare to, of course. For us, this is key to a well-lived journey, to build life-long memories and show the world to our Nelly.

On the morning of our last day, we boarded once again the tram towards the airport. But not to catch a flight this time! To get the keys to our rental car that would allow us to continue our trip in the amazing Cappadocia! The journey continues 🙂

If you have not done so already, may we suggest you have a look at our itinerary: 5 Exciting Weeks Discovering the Amazing Turkey and Experiencing Its Life. Hope this will inspire you 🙂

If you’ve ever visited Antalya, what is the best memory you have from your first time visit? If you’re planning to go, what would be on top of your list?