A Journey Beyond Imagination: Out Exploring Cappadocia’s Enchanted Landscape

After our first days in Türkiye exploring Antalya and the surrounding area, we were eager to discover one of the most (if not the most) famous regions of Turkey: Cappadocia, with its fairy chimneys, hot air balloons, troglodyte dwellings and amazing rocky landscapes.

Welcome, dear reader, to a journey that transcends the ordinary and ventures into the extraordinary. This blog post will transport you to the mystical land of Cappadocia. A place where reality blurs with fantasy, and every sunrise paints the sky with hues of wonder.

From the ancient underground cities of Kaymaklı and Derinkuyu to the breathtaking Ihlara Valley and the stunning Pigeon Valley, we invite you to join us as we explore the enchanting landscapes of Cappadocia. We’ll guide you through its surreal landscapes, hidden caves, history, and vibrant culture.

So, grab a cup of coffee, sit back, and let us take you on an unforgettable journey through Cappadocia. Whether you’re a seasoned traveller or a curious explorer, we promise you a read that’s as captivating as the land it describes. Let’s embark on this adventure together!

And as you journey with us, we’d love to hear about your own experiences in Cappadocia. Have you visited this magical land? Do you have any stories or tips to share? Leave a comment below and join the conversation. Your insights and experiences could help other readers plan their own adventure in Cappadocia. Let’s share and learn together! Happy reading and happy travels! 🌍

Day 1: On the way to Cappadocia (Beyşehir Lake, Konya)

Turkey is a vast, very vast country.

Leaving Antalya, we chose to drive to reach Cappadocia as this was the most convenient transportation mode, giving us maximum flexibility. The distance from Antalya airport (where the car rental agencies are) to Göreme in Cappadocia is just under 500km. The drive would take about 6h30min without breaks. We have decided to take it easy and to cover the distance over two days.

We made a stop for lunch in Beyşehir on the shore of the Beyşehir Lake – Beyşehir Gölü – the third largest natural lake in Turkey.
There, we had another of those Wow moments in front of the lake, humbled by the serene calmness of the lake and the wide-open landscape. The pictures are lovely but seeing this landscape in reality is absolutely awe-inspiring.

After this stop, we drove up to Konya, a very large city – in fact, the largest in Türkiye in terms of surface. The town from afar made us think of Dune. Of course, this impression disappeared when we reached the town. It is a gigantic residential area, with massive traffic jams, pollution, noise, etc.
In spite of people having been living in the area since at least 3000 BC, you won’t see ruins. No natural wonder nearby. The only feeling conveyed was absolute boredom… We spent the end of the day and the night in Konya and took off early morning to avoid traffic jams and headed towards Cappadocia, enjoying wild open landscapes. A whole lot of nothingness for miles and miles, only crossed by a thin line of civilisation (motorway). Mesmerising!

Day 2: Arrival in Mustafapaşa

We reached Cappadocia in the early afternoon. We had to stop almost immediately to take pictures of the mind-blowing landscapes offered to us.
The beauty of Cappadocia, believe us, is not exaggerated.

We were not staying in Göreme but in a smaller and slightly more remote village called Mustafapaşa. We booked a room in a lovely hotel, Villa Sinasos, that we warmly recommend… Just because it’s a great place, well located and the hosts are fantastic. We had the chance to cross some very interesting settlements on the way (villages of Bahçeli and Ayvalı), half of them still built upon antic troglodytes dwellings, like frozen in time. Breath-taking.

Interesting to note that about 2/3 of the population of those villages have left over the past 20 years and the trend continues. Lots of empty houses add to the remoteness and uniqueness of those places.

Day 3: Zelve and Göreme Open-Air Museums and Enjoying Local Cuisine (Çavuşin)

On the following day, a warm and sunny day in November (yes, really 🙂 ), our family of three visited the two open-air museums, Göreme Açık Hava Müzesi, in the mountain above Göreme and Zelve Açık Hava Müzesi in the mountain above… Çavuşin (No, not Zelve!).

Stepping Back in Time: Zelve Open-Air Museum

The Zelve Open-Air Museum or Zelve Açık Hava Müzesi is a UNESCO World Heritage site. This historical cave town was once a bustling village community where a large and diverse population used to lived since the 4th or 5th century. It houses the oldest churches of Cappadocia (6th century).

The main features of this site include churches, dwellings, and religious and secular chambers. The museum, spread over three valleys, featured many cave homes, tunnels, and churches.

The first valley hosts ancient rock-cut settlements and churches. See the old mill (değirmen), with a grindstone. Explore the impressive Grape Church (Üzümlü Kilise) and neighbouring Fish Church (Balıklı Kilise) with fish figuring in one of the primitive paintings. Altogether, there were 15 different churches. The erosion has condemned most of them and 6 only are still visible today.

You can find abandoned residential quarters in the second valley. This valley also offers the opportunity to explore cave rooms, single and multi-storied old dwellings and tunnels spread through the valley.

Interestingly, the community was a place where Christians and Muslims co-existed harmoniously. The evidence is in the third valley with the ruins of a small unadorned rock-cut mosque with a dome, in front of a monastery complex that resembles an upside-down bowl cut out of the rock.

People abandoned the area around 1100 AD when Seljuk Turks occupied the region. It then became a Turkish village community. The Christians had to leave in 1924 due to the exchange of minorities between Greece and Turkey. People lived there until 1952 when the government of Turkey decided to move them for safety reasons to a new, modern village called Aktepe, also known as Yeni Zelve (New Zelve), just 2 kilometres to the northeast.

The visit took us nearly 3 hours.

A Visit to the Göreme Open-Air Museum

After we visited the Zelve Open-Air Museum, we headed to the Göreme Open-Air Museum. This other UNESCO World Heritage site is a vast monastic complex of around 30 rock-carved churches, chapels, and monasteries. A testament to the region’s rich Byzantine heritage.

The history of the site dates back to the 4th century. Christian monks and anchorites began carving out their living spaces, churches, and monasteries from the soft volcanic rock formations. By the end of the 2nd century AD, the valley had become a hub of Christian activity, attracting converts fleeing persecution.

The museum houses several notable attractions, including the Dark Church, the Snake Church, the Apple Church, and the Tokah Church, all adorned with beautiful frescoes. The Dark Church, the most famous of the museum’s churches, takes its name from the fact that it originally had very few windows. Luckily, this lack of light preserved the vivid colour of the frescoes. The Snake Church, also called the Church of St Onuphrius, is where St George’s ubiquitous dragon-foe is still having a bad day. The Apple Church contains well-preserved, colourful, skillfully painted frescoes of biblical scenes as well as simple red-ochre daubs. We easily took a solid 3 hours on-site to see everything.

The Göreme Open-Air Museum offers a unique glimpse into the architectural, artistic, and religious heritage of the Byzantine Empire.

Culinary Delights and Historic Wonders of Cappadocia: An Afternoon in Çavuşin

After visiting the Göreme Open-Air Museum and because we were hungry, we drove to the village of Çavuşin.

While exploring narrow streets, we landed on a plaza surrounded by a few restaurants. There, we decided to treat ourselves to a taste of the local cuisine. Amongst the dishes to enjoy, we strongly recommend you try:

• Testi Kebab: a slow-cooked meat dish served in a clay pot. The meat, usually lamb or beef, is marinated with spices and cooked to perfection. The cook then seals and places the pot over a fire. When ready to be served, the pot arrived at our table still on the fire before being broken open, releasing a burst of aromatic steam and revealing the tender, flavourful meat inside. A delight!
• Manti: a type of Turkish dumpling filled with meat and spices. These small, bite-sized dumplings are usually served with a sauce made from yoghurt, garlic, and melted butter, and topped with a sprinkling of dried mint and red pepper flakes.
• Wine: After seeing a local couple ordering a bottle of wine from the area, we also got ourselves the same wine to go with our meal. The wine was great!

After this grandiose local cuisine experience (and cheap!), we continue our exploration of the village. Nestled in the heart of Cappadocia, Çavuşin is one of the oldest settlements in the region. The village is known for its unique cave houses and stunning rock formations. Amongst the most popular sights, both the Çavuşin ruins and the Çavuşin Church are worth a visit. We looked at the sunset from the top of the Çavuşin Church, enjoying the stunning views of the surrounding region.

Note:
From Çavuşin, you have several great hiking opportunities, including the nearby, stunning and famous Red Valley.

Day 4: A Day Walk in Ihlara Valley

A Tranquil Trek: Discovering the Natural Wonders of Ihlara Valley

After a good breakfast at the place we were staying at in Mustafapaşa, we drove to the Ihlara Valley, located about 90km away. The weather was perfect for a day walk with clear skies and not even a breeze. The drive was as picturesque as one could imagine, with the unique rock formations of Cappadocia painting a surreal backdrop, wild open landscapes and remote traditional villages.
We also learned from our hosts in Mustafapaşa that hot air balloon rides are also organised in Ihlara (there were none that day in Cappadocia).

Upon reaching Ihlara, we were greeted by an overwhelming sense of tranquillity. The village was almost empty and we barely saw anyone during our day walk in the valley (less than a dozen people for sure!), making us feel like we had stumbled upon an undiscovered piece of paradise.

The Ihlara Valley is a stunning gorge with a river running right down its heart for 16km within the volcanic rock. With its lush forest, the valley is a green gem chiselled in an arid plateau. It’s a strikingly different environment compared to the rest of Cappadocia, usually very rocky and dry.
The peaceful, leafy nature of the valley made our walk a truly enjoyable experience.
The walk is not difficult in itself, the path is easy to follow and one can take the time and appreciate the forest, the river, the canyon walls towering above and the birds living their absolute best lives.
The path will make you pass above the river a couple of times via small wooden bridges that will make you feel like Indiana Jones in his prime days!

Unearthing History: The Troglodyte Settlements and Cave Churches of Ihlara Valley

In addition to its natural wonder, the valley is full of troglodyte settlements and cave churches. From the 4th century CE, and through its long and rich history, people have carved the whole valley. At its peak, the valley was home to up to 80,000 inhabitants, as shown by the vast number of dwellings cut into the volcanic rock walls.

We visited 8 different churches, including the intricate Dark Church and the St. George Church (Kirkdamalti Kilise), both adorned with well-preserved frescoes from the 9th to 13th centuries.

Our day walk in the Ihlara Valley was undoubtedly one of the highlights of our trip to Cappadocia and our whole 5-week trip in Turkey. The valley’s natural beauty, combined with its rich historical and cultural significance, made our visit an unforgettable experience.
We highly recommend a visit to this hidden gem in the heart of Cappadocia.

Day 5: A Day Hiking in Cappadocia, Above and Under Ground

Kaymaklı and Derinkuyu underground cities

Cappadocia is home to 42 known and recognised underground cities, with many yet to be discovered. No one knows exactly how many could exist in total. Those underground cities have been used from the bronze age up to the Byzantine era. Currently, you can visit only 6 of those underground cities. Among them likely the two most dramatic ones: Derinkuyu and Kaymaklı.

We visited both in about half a day.

Don’t expect to be left free to wander in those labyrinthic cities. For safety reasons and archaeological preservation purposes, you can visit only a part of those underground cities.
We didn’t like the visit to Kaymaklı. Frankly. 20% of the city is open to the public. Very organised and crowdy with large groups, and guides and staff inside pushing you to move move move. As a result, you don’t have time to appreciate this underground city, despite being very interesting. The visit to the underground city in Kaymaklı lasted about 20 minutes…
Outside, local sellers are soliciting you to buy buy buy. They managed to somehow turn a historical wonder into a real touristy rip-off, to be honest. We cannot recommend you to visit this place.

On the contrary, we greatly enjoyed the visit to Derinkuyu. 30% of the city is open to the public. The story of how this underground city has been re-discovered is funny: a man was worried about his disappearing chickens. While he was renovating his home, the poultry would disappear into a small crevasse created during the remodel, never to be seen again. By digging, he landed in the antic city carved in the rock.
This time, we spent more than an hour below the surface, exploring rooms and corridors. Nelly had a lot of fun playing in this maze (you cannot get lost).

Hiking the Pigeon Valley (hike) between Göreme and Uchisar

After the time underground, we headed back toward Mustafapaşa and stopped on the way to Uchisar. As it was early afternoon, we decided to walk the Pigeon Valley (Güvercinlik Vadisi), a spectacular trail between Uchisar and Göreme.

The trail is 4km long to reach Göreme, but for some reasons, it seemed much longer. Maybe having a 2-year-old leading the walk and stopping mesmerised every 10 steps could be an explanation 🙂 🙂 🙂

As you descend into the Pigeon Valley, named for the countless dovecotes (pigeon houses) carved into the volcanic rocks, the path winds through a woodland landscape encased between unique rock formations. The valley is a riot of colours, the pink and orange hues of the rocks contrasting beautifully with the greenery. The air is filled with the scent of wildflowers, and the occasional rustle of leaves underfoot adds to the symphony of nature.

The valley has a rich history dating back to the 9th century. When early settlers carved dwellings in the rock along the way and the famous dovecotes to provide a place for pigeons to rest. Locals used pigeons for their meat and feathers but also for their droppings. That made an excellent fertiliser, useful to enrich the arid soil of Cappadocia for agriculture. Thanks to this practice, locals managed to create vineyards, fields and orchards giving bountiful harvests. This practice contributed significantly to Cappadocia’s renowned wine tradition. Walking along the trail, you will see some vineyards maintained by locals.

Even if the locals don’t use pigeons for food and fertiliser, they still maintain the dovecotes and the valley – for tourism essentially. The Pigeon Valley is supposed to be touristy. But we met only another family walking there that day!

Along your walk, starting from Uchisar, you will be able to see the Uchisar castle, the highest point of Cappadocia (1350m above sea level), an impressive rock formation carved with innumerable dwellings and tunnels. There are a few small paths allowing you to climb on the side of the valley for better views. Following the path you will see stunning landscapes.

We couldn’t go up to Göreme as we were running short of time and had to head back, but stop at a stunning viewpoint, where the valley looks like a deep canyon, with high towering walls on each side, and an open view on the region in the background. Absolutely magic!

Day 6: Sunrise at Red Valley (and Departure from Cappadocia)

For our 6th (and last) day in Cappadocia, we woke up even earlier than usual. Once loaded our backpacks in the car we drove to the panoramic viewpoint overlooking the Red Valley to enjoy the morning sun in Cappadocia’s most beautiful natural wonder.

There is a small fee to access the Red Valley panoramic viewpoint. This is the famous spot where one can see the incredible numbers of hot air balloons filling the sky together and giving those amazing dream-like pictures. No balloons flew that day due to the weather conditions and likely low tourist numbers. Interestingly enough, hot air balloons seem like a sure thing but not so. Balloons fly up to 280 days a year (about 5 times a week), and not always from the same spot. You better check with your accommodation for details! 🙂

The Red Valley, aptly named for its hues, is a spectacle of nature’s artistry, with its stunning rock formations carved by time and weather over millennia.
As the first light of dawn breaks over the horizon, the Red Valley in Cappadocia begins to reveal its breathtaking beauty. When the sun rises, it casts a warm glow on the landscape, illuminating the intricate patterns and textures of the rocks. The view is nothing short of magical, making the early morning wake-up well worth it.

The place was nearly empty, allowing us to fully appreciate nature’s awe-inspiring power, amazed by the spectacular display. It’s a moment of tranquillity and wonder, a testament to the timeless beauty of our world. A sight you won’t want to miss.

We stayed there for a while, enjoying a splendid breakfast prepared by our wonderful hosts in Mustafapaşa. Nelly had a fabulous time playing around (always under supervision as the panoramic viewpoint is surrounded by cliffs!). Simply magic! 🙂

Cappadocia: A Journey Beyond Imagination

As we bid farewell to Cappadocia’s enchanting landscapes, leaving the Red Valley and heading south towards the Mediterranean coast, we carry with us memories of a journey transcending imagination. From the mystical Ihlara Valley to the awe-inspiring Red Valley, every corner of Cappadocia has a story to tell, a sight to behold, and a secret to reveal.

Our journey through Cappadocia was not just about exploring its surreal landscapes, but also about immersing ourselves in its rich history and vibrant culture. The troglodyte dwellings. The cave churches. The underground cities. The dovecotes of the Pigeon Valley. All bear testament to the ingenuity and resilience of its past inhabitants.

Cappadocia is a living testament to nature’s allure and humanity’s spirit, where past and present coexist, and ancient traditions blend with modern life.

As we end the second stage of our 5 Exciting Weeks Discovering the Amazing Turkey journey, we invite you to embark on your own adventure in Cappadocia. Explore its hidden gems, delve into its history, and lose yourself in its mesmerising beauty. And when you do, remember to tread lightly, respect the environment, and honour the legacy of those who came before us.

Before you go, we’d love to hear from you. Have you been to Cappadocia? Do you have any tips or experiences to share? Or perhaps you’re planning a trip and have some questions? Leave a comment below. We’d love to hear your thoughts and stories.

And if you enjoyed this post, don’t forget to check out our other blog posts for more travel inspiration. Safe travels, and see you on the next adventure!

Remember, every journey begins with a single step. So, take that step and let the magic of Cappadocia enchant you.